When looking for a hypoallergenic dog, you will have to decide on a breed of dog and also how the dog will fit into your lifestyle. Most hypoallergenic breeds are small or medium in size. Smaller dogs require more individual attention than larger breeds. Many allergy sufferers love hypoallergenic dogs because they don’t shed, lose dander, or have an undercoat. Some of the breeds include the Irish Water Spaniel, the Soft coated Wheaten Terrier, and the Bedlington Terrier.

If you prefer an hypoallergenic dog that’s a little bigger in size, you might like the Irish Water Spaniel. Because of their very short, human-like hair, these dogs don’t shed and don’t release allergens in the air. The coats of these dogs must be maintained through grooming every two months. The Irish Water Spaniel is a friendly dog that likes to exercise and swim during the warmer months of the year.

The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier comes in four different varieties: The traditional Irish, the heavy Irish, English, and American. The main difference is the size of the dog. They all have a short coat that doesn’t shed. In order to keep their coat well maintained and to avoid rashes, these dogs need to be groomed regularly.

The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a very friendly dog that’s even comfortable around strangers. They love to exercise, and they thrive in the company of humans. They should not be kept in an apartment. Since they love to run and bark, outdoor space is a must for them. If you are in need of a hypoallergenic dog that is a little larger than most, then this is a dog worth considering.

Bedlington Terriers are smaller than the Irish Water Spaniel and Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, but they have short coats which need to be brushed a few times a week to prevent tangling. They will also need to be groomed every three or four months in order to maintain a healthy coat. These dogs are high energy and they love to exercise. They are a wonderful choice for apartment living.

Of course, there are other breeds of hypoallergenic dogs you can choose from. Some other varieties might be just perfect for your lifestyle and allergies. Smaller dogs are better for apartment living as they tend to bark less and require less room to move around in. If instead you live in a home with a yard, you might want something a little bigger. Hypoallergenic dogs require more grooming because, rather than shedding, their hair continues to grow. If your dog isn’t adequately groomed, his hair will clump together, and the dog might develop skin rashes and other problems.

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Some dog breeds have more problems with allergies than others. The allergies might be caused by small nasal passages, reactions to insect bites, irritable stomachs, or even from intolerance toward their own hair and dander. Dogs that have allergies include the following breeds, Bishon frise, terrier, retrievers, beagles, setters, and boxers. Other breeds can also be allergic to different things.

Skin rashes, patches of missing hair and raw skin, upset stomach, and watery eyes, are some of the common symptoms of allergies in dogs. The symptoms may subside after a few days, but you should still watch the dog to make sure they do not come back. If they do, your dog might need medical attention. Simply putting a flea collar on the dog might help him overcome allergy problems.

Allergies might also cause a change of moods in your dog. They may become irritable, lethargic, clingy, or angry. You won’t be able to fix these behaviors with discipline. Your best course of action is to figure out the most effective way to deal with the problem at hand. It would be very helpful for you to keep a journal of your dog’s activities and symptoms, so you can better explain the situation to your vet when you see him.

Some smaller breeds may have breathing issues as they age, there is little that can be done except to keep their sleeping area clean, vacuum often, and consider buying a hepa filter that will trap dust, particles, and other air pollutants that are in the air. During cold weather, it would be better to keep the smaller breeds indoors and play with them to provide the exercise they need. Head colds can certainly make allergies even worse.

If you notice fleas or flea dirt, it is a good idea to give the dog a flea bath. Make sure the whole house is free from fleas. Carpet spray should help, but if it doesn’t you will need to call an exterminator. If you have been able to get rid of all the fleas from your dog, you should spray him every time he goes outside. This will keep your dog protected from getting other fleas. If the dog has open bites or wounds he caused by scratching, you might have to wait until they heal before you bathe him or spray him.

If the dog has an allergies to the food you feed him, he might vomit. You should first visit the vet to see if the problem isn’t internal. The vet might recommend a different type of food. This should stop the vomiting and diarrhea.

If your dog happens to be allergic to his own hair and dander, there is, sadly, very little you can do. You can try to help by brushing your dog every day, giving him a bath once a month, and taking him for regular grooming. An anti-histamine might be necessary if allergies get worse or last through time.

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If you have just brought a new puppy home, you are probably wondering how easy it is going to be to housebreak him. If you follow these three easy steps, you should be able to housebreak your puppy in no time at all.

First of all, you should take your puppy outside every hour, and try to always go to the same spot. Don’t move from that spot and don’t walk him. Let him have the length of his four-to-six foot leash. Use positive reinforcement when he goes, and offer him a treat. Make sure to pet, kiss, and hug him too, and reward him with a walk around the block. After the walk, let him move around the house freely for about twenty minutes. Then put him into his housetraining crate for 35 minutes. (You should discard the crate once your puppy is housetrained.)

If the puppy hasn’t used the bathroom after twenty minutes outside, take him back to his crate for 20 minutes to avoid that he will use the bathroom in the house instead. Continue doing this until he uses the bathroom outside.

Take him outside before you retire for the night. You’ll also want to take him out once or twice during the night without taking him for a walk or letting him run around the house. You will be glad in the future that you have taken the time to do this.

The second week, you should take the puppy out every hour and a half during the day, and only as he needs during the night. He’ll let you know when he needs to go. If he uses the bathroom outside during the day, let him play for 30 minutes after that. And if he doesn’t, let him get back in his crate for 35 minutes. Make sure you keep him monitored when he is inside.

Gradually add time to his supervised free run and crate time until he’s successfully holding it for three hours during free run time, and four daytime hours in the crate. Take the puppy outside as soon as he gets out of the crate.

It will only take about ten days to give your puppy an idea, but training doesn’t end there. You should certainly continue your efforts. If you catch your puppy sniffing around the house and squatting, shout “outside!” and take him outside immediately. Praise him outside as he finishes up. But don’t forget to watch him during free time, so that you can catch him before he goes if he still has a bit more to eliminate.

It will take a little bit of work at the beginning to housebreak your puppy, but you’ll find it’s worth it in the long run.

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All dogs bark, it’s their way to communicate a message. Dogs bark as a response to stimuli, may it be a reaction to a guest’s arrival, may they be expected or not, or a way to convey their feelings of excitement, boredom, hunger and the like.

While you may not mind your dog’s occasional barking, if he barks too much he is sure to become a nuisance for both you and your neighbours alike. Starting at home would be the best way to start on your goal to quell your pooch’s problematic barking.

First, create a bait of sorts by coercing your dog to bark. For example, you can ask someone to ring your doorbell or knock on your door.

Once your dog takes the cue and attacks your door barking to the high heavens, that would be your signal to meet him head-on, grab him by the collar and say the word “quiet” firmly, albeit without the histrionics and high volume – two wrongs don’t make a right.

Use the “praise and reward” technique if he quiets down. He deserves your praise for doing a good job.

When he continues barking, close his mouth with your hand, wrap your fingers around his muzzle – use both hands if needed, and give the command for him to keep quiet. If he stops, then give praise.

Most dogs master the the “quiet” command if the above training is done on a regular basis with adequate follow-through. Set up similar situations to “lure” your dog to bark and repeat training whenever possible.

However, if your dog barks as if his life depended on it, then control such persistent barking by doing the following:

Vinegar-Water solution. This would be composed of 7/8 water and the remaining 1/8 vinegar. Pour the mixture into a water pistol or what kids call “super soaker” for longer distance shooting.

Aim and shoot at his chest whenever he can’t stop barking even on your command. Dogs abhor vinegar on the same level as vampires hate garlic and Superman avoids kryptonite. It even induces dogs to start sneezing. No need to worry as vinegar isn’t dangerous to their health.

When your dog stops barking, make sure he gets some praise in the end.

For your information, your dog might still be barking noisily and disrupting your neighborhood when you are not at home. Fortunately, “bark collars” have been created to soothe such “savage beasts” when you’re not around.

You can choose from several different types of bark collars. The three most popular collars would be the ones that emit a high-pitched squeal akin to the sound of guitar feedback, collars that jolt your dog with electricity when he barks and citronella collars, which can also annoy your dog through squirting. Usually, these collars can help you solve a problematic barker.

This article wouldn’t be complete without my five-star recommendation. I believe that choking or shocking an animal is a form of cruelty, so if I were you, I’d opt for either the high-pitched sounding or citronella collars.

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Cats require care and they sometimes live as long as 15 years, so if you decide to get one, realize that you are making a long-term commitment.

Cats require feeding (daily), care and ‘play time’ on a regular basis. You also need to consider the expense of yearly vaccines, medications and treatment if your pet gets sick. These expenses can run pretty high, though it is possible to buy health insurance for pets, also.

Before you bring the cat home, you should provide bowls for food and water, a bed, some toys, and food.

Kittens need to eat more often and they should be fed small amounts four times a day, working your way to three times at 3 months old, and twice a day around 6-8 months. Once cats are over 12 months, they should be fed only twice a day.

Cats groom themselves, but brushing them from time to time will help avoid hair balls.

If you want your cat to use a pet door, you will need to spend a little time training him. Offering a treat from the other side of the door with the flap fully open will attract your cat to go through. Begin with the flap completely open, and then close it gradually to let the cat understand that he can get to the treat just by pushing the flap open with his head.

Cats like to sharpen their claws on most household furniture! Suites, corners of walls (thick paper), carpets. A good scratch post will help. If you pick up your cat and put him near the post any time you see him scratching something, he will soon learn that he can only scratch the post.

If losing your cat is worrisome to you, you can have a small microchip inserted into the cat’s back. The chip contains information, which can help to identify the cat as belonging to you.

Cats are notorious for taking care of themselves. It is not entirely true, but cats are more independent than many other pets. But, if a cat decides you are a good companion, you are going to understand why so many people absolutely adore cats.

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If your Little Buddy is a not-so-little (and maybe ever-so-hungry) Pit Bull, you may have to be more prepared than usual when taking him on your next flight. You have to take note of the many things that would be required you in order for the Pit Bull to be allowed onboard, and the myriad considerations you have to look into before leaving.

First of all, when calling the airline and having them book your flight, you want them to know right off the bat that you’re traveling with someone – your Pit Bull. Different countries have different guidelines for pets, so your airline should be able to give you specific instructions depending on where you are planning to go. Another thing you have to research well in advance would be the airline’s rules – for sure they have their own pet policies in place. And you will also need to follow through on the preparation stage – make another call about two weeks before your flight takes off. You never know when Lady Luck might stick a fork in your plans and either cause some hitches or totally cancel your flight.

Taking your pet to a veterinarian for a pre-flight medical exam is a recommended step, though not exactly a must – we suggest it because it is always a sound move to take preventative action against potential medical issues. But what you should definitely take care of would be securing a certificate of good health for your pet. Regardless of the country’s policies and ordinances on transporting pets, or the airline’s own policies, you will need to follow them when it comes to certificates. Most of the time, the certificate has to be dated at least ten days pre-flight. You shouldn’t pack this paperwork, but rather keep it with you while on the plane.

A collar and tag is a must to ensure that you do not lose your Pit Bull and can keep track of where he’s at. The tag should have all of your contact information, the date of his last rabies vaccine, and his license. It makes sense to have an extra tag with you and give it to a friend or family member as an additional precaution. Another thing to research on would be the airline’s kennel requirements – choose a kennel that adheres to such requirements, and have some form of identification placed on the inside and outside of it.

All items placed inside the crate of your Pit Bull have to be attached firmly. Of course, you should make inquiries and check what exactly the airline would allow – and not allow. Feed your Pit Bull around four hours before your estimated departure time, and take extra food and water with you, just in case you are late leaving the terminal.

Following the quick tips above and adhering to airline policies and procedures can make air travel with your Pit Bull a breeze for both human and animal alike.

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Congratulations – you have chosen to keep tropical fish! Welcome to a wonderful hobby and hours upon hours of amusement. But let us face it – aquariums are hard work, a lot of hard work and sacrifice. Here are just some of the things you have to do – feed the fish, aerate and clean your aquarium, provide light and nutrients to live plants (if applicable) and prevent your aquarium from growing algae.

If you are up to the challenges and think such tasks are peanuts, then you’re on your way to a rewarding and productive hobby.

Hokay, let’s stop dilly-dallying here – time to get those brass tacks out of the way: That’s why this quick guide is here – to educate newcomers to the aquarium hobby about the things they need to come up with. Regardless if you are keeping saltwater or freshwater fish, here are the bare necessities for your aquarium hobby:

An aquarium. To keep you fish in.

An aquarium stand. To support your new aquarium.

Your choice of filters. The three main types of filters are chemical, mechanical and biological.

Adequate lighting. To keep your live plants healthy and give your fish a more colorful backdrop.

A hood for your tank. To reduce evaporation, and stop anything (such as a cat’s paw) from getting in.

Decorative items. These can be anything you decide. You have free hand in choosing the ideal decoration for your tank, as there are many options available. You want those wires hidden, so create a decorative background as well.

Sand/gravel. You may be going “sub-what?” but substrate is simply what you see at the bottom of aquariums – the sand/gravel mixture.

Your pick of plants. There’s a wide range of plants you can choose for your aquarium nowadays, including live and plastic plants.

Heater. Tropical fish require a water temperature that is slightly higher than most people’s room temperature.

What, chemicals? By chemicals, we mean chemical filtration, which gets rid of harmful gases that the water picks up as it passes through a carbon filter. This is not mandatory equipment but if you have it, all the better for your fish.

A thermometer. I personally prefer the ones with liquid crystals inside…the plastic strip variety.

A small net. For getting debris out of the aquarium.

A scrubby stick, special aquarium bucket and a brush with rounded bristles – basically, miscellaneous cleaning equipment.

Fish food. Goes without saying.

And last, but not least… you’ll need the fish!

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You need all the time you could get, as well as a good deal of effort and patience when trying to housebreak a Pit Bull puppy. Remember always that you should not set a time frame, lest you set yourself up for disappointment – different puppies have different learning curves, so the main thing for you would be to stick to a routine. Many an owner has waved the white flag in desperate frustration, not knowing what to do or when to fully instill those housebreaking techniques in their dogs. Easy come, easy go, little high, little low – you cannot expect your puppy to be perfect so it’s important never to mete out punishment if he fails to do his business where he should the first, second or even fifth time around.

When minimizing the time and effort involved in housebreaking your puppy, there are several things you can do to lessen the load. As with any type of training, you have to be consistent with the routine. If you can’t take your dog out at his designated time, have somebody else in the family, or a friend do it for you. Some may take longer than others, but by following this technique, your puppy will eventually learn when and where he is expected to do his dirty deeds. You should have everyone else in the household alerted to the routine, and willing to help when needed. Sometimes it is helpful to keep a journal of your dog’s habits, so that if they turn into a problem later, it will be easier to correct them.

It is a good idea to go outside with your puppy to ensure that he’s doing what he has to do while outside – a good safeguard for any unpleasantry that may occur inside. If you are unable to go out with your puppy, he should be confined to one area such as a crate, or fenced in backyard, so that he can learn this is his space to go.

One thing that can interrupt the housebreaking process is irregular feedings. It is important that you feed your puppy the same amount at the same time everyday, and try to avoid giving him extra snacks and treats until he is successfully housebroken.

The most important thing when housebreaking your puppy is to be patient and understanding. “It” is bound to happen where it shouldn’t, and you cannot expect your dog to master housebreaking techniques ASAP. Give your dog all the time he needs, and don’t expect Beethoven the Umpteenth when your dog is most likely an average Rover – set your expectations reasonably. It all comes with the territory – cleaning up, dealing with the stench and squirming as you clean up, and not punishing your dog for making you work extra hard. You will have a much better relationship with your puppy if you are patient with him as he grows.

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If you’re looking for a dog, not too small and not too large, playful enough for the kids to appreciate and tough enough to scare the bad guys away at night, you just might be looking for a Collie.

The Bodyguard

Way back in the day, the Collie was bred as a shepherding dog, and due to its protective instincts, is just right as a general family dog.

An active and loving family ensures a happy Collie. This breed is not a good choice for apartment living, since it’s a large dog and loves to spend time outside. A home with a big yard is ideal. The Collie may be an affable dog who enjoys playing with the young ‘uns, but he is very determined to be the best watchdog he could be. A Collie would bark whenever he senses another person – or thing’s presence in the yard – heck, even pieces of trash flying randomly around are fair game to him.

Stubborn, But Trainable

It is common for the Collie to be a handful as a young pup, as they can be stubborn by nature. Puppy obedience classes are also highly recommended for you and your Collie puppy – unless you see nothing wrong with a 60-pound dog wreaking havoc inside and outside your house and throughout the neighborhood. And be sure to instill discipline – lay down the law and let your Collie know that he should stay on the floor if you don’t want your furniture feeling as if it came from Sasquatch’s yard sale. The very moment you let your Collie onto your furniture, he will probably think to himself that it’s all well and good, and take every opportunity to stay there when you’re out.

A Good Eater

Collies can pack away a lot of food. If you don’t want your Collie turning into Lassie the Hut, give them three small portions a day. With that said, you’ll want to head to the vet post-haste and switch to a diet food of sorts if your Collie develops a Homer Simpson-esque belly.

Grooming The Collie does not need to be groomed as extensively as his long, rough hair may often suggest. You’ll want to give your Collie a brushing several times a week to avoid mats – areas to focus on would be his legs, his face and the area behind his ears. A smooth coated Collie needs only occasional grooming.

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Dog collars are your dog’s best friend, no pun intended – they include all your dog’s pertinent information, his tags and ID included. Shopping for a collar for your dog can be a challenge for a lot of us, but hey, let’s put it this way – at least you have choices. If you are researching your options, these easy ideas can help you out.

You need to find a collar that will fit around your dog’s neck exactly. Once you have ensured this, then you can go on to choosing your desired style, pattern or color collar.

For small dogs, pick out a collar that is neither too heavy nor too light. If you own puppies, you can either go with a thin leather collar or a nylon collar due to its soft texture. Wider and stronger collars would match larger dogs, such as sporting dogs or large working dogs like a St. Bernard. You can always use this quick test to ensure that you have chosen the best fit for your dog – the distance between your dog’s neck and the collar should not be narrower than two finger’s width. It should be a tight squeeze though, as you don’t want to the collar to be too loose. You want that excess strap dangling from the collar to be cut off as well, unless you’re comfortable with your dog mistaking it for a sausage link.

So that you can easily adjust the length of the dog’s collar, you want to look for a snap-on fastener as an alternative for a buckle collar. As for choke collars, they are cool looking but shouldn’t be used on younger puppies – gentler, training collars are better.

Here are a couple of neat facts about leather collars – one, they are versatile in terms of the colors, styles and widths you can choose from, and two, they become softer on a dog’s skin due to the dog himself and the natural oils produced from his skin. Nylon collars, on the other hand, are washable collars that retain their durability, and are best suited for younger and smaller dogs. Nylon collars are also suitable for larger dogs, but you would need to choose those with heavy webbing.

Since there are some dogs with specific needs, there are collars just right for them. Did you know that your canine Kelly Slater can have his own dog collar made from the same material as the wetsuits surfers wear? And for those impatient dogs that pull on your leash during walks, head collars are the best option and are often used in training. A harness can come in handy with an anxious or hyperactive dog as well, as it is positioned around the dog’s chest and ribcage to prevent choking – some harnesses even allow you to buckle your dog into your car!

Dog collars generally come with matching leashes, and when talking possible designs and colors, let’s just say they are countless. Research well and do not make any hasty purchases as you search for the best collar for your dog, because his comfort is your peace of mind at the end of the day.

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